By Tony Sylvester.
Last week, I cracked out some books off the shelf and had a delve into the history of the canvas sneaker, and its place in the summer wardrobe. This was a little continuation of a broader look at Riviera style that Simon and I both tackled a couple of summers ago.
This time, I thought I would take a gander at some of the offerings on the market, plus favourites from my own shoe rack.
Japan has its own tradition of canvas and vulcanised rubber shoemaking, based in Kurume, going back to the Taisho era (1912-26) where rapid industrialisation created a need for sturdier footwear and the mechanisation to fulfil it.
The MoonStar Company started making jika-tabi – split toe cotton workboots on a rubber sole during this time, and still manufacture the Moonstar, Shoes Like Pottery and Doek brands.
The Moonstar Gym Classic offers a similar silhouette to the all white tennis shoes you see in the Laurence Fellows illustrations from the 30s – sleek, plain and understated. A solid bankable model, but rather stuck in that ‘old-timey’ look in my opinion.
Perhaps the more all-round and less era-specific answer would be the Doek Oxford. As the name suggests, a clear descendent of the CVO, the more rounded last and appearance lends a broader appeal.
I’ve always admired the way the Beige Habilleur chaps will mix them with their tailoring from Justo Gimeno and Ring Jacket.
Speaking of the CVO, Sperry has produced this model since its introduction in the mid 30s. The modern iteration is a totally adequate and reasonably priced version they call the ‘CVO reissue’, which they claim is based on their 1970s version. The overall quality and looks match the price tag of £65, I have tried them and I must confess comfort was largely absent.
Much more appealing is the Sperry x Beams Plus ‘Mil-Spec’ CVO which harks back to that US Navy connection we mentioned in the last piece.
Priced a little more in line with the current Moonstar offerings, the cotton uppers are heavier duty, and the insoles more cushioned and the foxing a little thicker. The colourways reflect the military pedigree.
For my money, Wakouwas from Anatomica offer the best modern take on the Sperry Top Sider CVO, basing their shape on Alden’s infamous ‘Modified’ Last. Much has been written about about the last, and it makes total sense to employ it here, as it was developed for US Naval dress shoes in the 1940s, thus echoing the CVO’s martial heritage.
My favourites are a lurid International Klein Blue upper on black sole. They used to be made by the Asahi company in Japan, another Kurume-based manufacturer with a long pedigree – they are the same parent company as Bridgestone Tyres, although production has moved away to other parts of Asia.
Some wearers have noted a shift downward in quality following the move, something I have not detected myself. Asahi themselves offer a made-in-Japan alternative under their own banner at a slightly more reasonable price point, but I have yet to try ‘em.
Also in my collection, but with allusions toward Edward Windsor’s shoe rack, are Fennica’s ‘Duke’ plimsoll designed by Terry Ellis back in the 2010s.
Manufactured by Moonstar, they take the basic shape of the Vans Authentic deck shoe – itself another CVO descendent, but mimic the colourway of Windsor’s extensive collection as pictured in the last article – a rich mustardy tan on orange red sole.
The foxing is double wrapped around the sole, and silver proud eyelets complete the homage. Instead of the traditional ‘siped’ sole, they have the waffle sole that the Van Doran company developed in 1966, another innovation in search of traction – this time taken up by skaters rather than yachtsmen.
Next up a brace of Keds reissues from Mark McNairy from 2012. Named ‘Boosters” after a 50s rename of the Yeoman we discussed at length last time around.
These are pretty precise recreations of the era, based on the photographs and illustrations I’ve seen. Woven hessian canvas in navy and tan on red crepe soles with silver eyelets.
Originally supplied with white flat laces, I swapped those out for tonal round ones, more in keeping with the originals, I believe. Despite their unwavering accuracy, I prefer Fennica’s interpretation I think, there’s something more creative to them.
And lastly, the fanciest of the bunch are the JM Weston 38 Tennis reissues. These came directly from a photo in French menswear magazine Adam in 1938, first posted on instagram by the ever informative Kerloazdiary.
Weston seemed to have built their new ones directly from the photo, complete with leather lined canvas uppers, stitched in rubber soles with a uniquely straight vamp seam to the side of the upper. These lads are pricy to be sure, but do have the added bonus of being resoleable by the factory.
I got the all black upper on black sole as a sort of summer formal stand in. A real point of difference to the others in my rotation.
For styling tips, I never stray far from that David Niven image or indeed that quote from Geoffrey Wolff’s 1990 novel we opened with. Something about linen and flannel atop canvas and rubber has an eternal appeal.
Just ask Ralph Lauren, whose Bruce Weber shot lookbooks of the 80s and 90s are chock full of excellent references taking in seersucker, madras, flannels and linens. A masterclass in all honesty.
*Note from Simon: I have experience with two recent releases, to add to Tony’s excellent summary. Loro Piana have a CVO that is very well made and comfortable, but has a higher wrap on the foxing that I think spoils the shape somewhat. I have also tried the Anglo-Italian model, which is more similar to the Weston in being leather-lined and stitched – and on a different sole to the rest. The silhouette is great, but personally I like the lightness and unlined nature of other canvas shoes. My favourite canvas shoe overall is the Superga 1925 reissue (currently only available on the Italian website).
