By Andrew Borda.
Rome is often a first port of call for visitors to Italy, due to its history, beauty and climate. I’ve had the great fortune of spending a lot of time there over the past three years, and can only agree that the moniker Roma Caput Mundi (Rome, capital of the world) is largely deserved.
However, from a sartorial point of view Rome is usually overshadowed by Naples, Milan and Florence. While there are certainly fewer famous menswear brands here, I’ve discovered a lot of relatively unknown gems and believe that Rome can easily hold its own from a sartorial point of view.
Tailors and other artisans
As mentioned above, Rome does not have the same reputation as Milan, Florence or Naples as a bespoke destination. This is somewhat unfair, as Rome may have more high-quality tailors and shoemakers than any of those cities.
I believe this is partially due to the fact that Rome is the capital of Italy, and institutional political and business settings in Italy are still very formal; partially due to the sheer number of well-off tourists who come to Rome with money to spend; and partially due to the fact that Rome is very large and so there are some neighbourhoods where lower rents mean artisans and independent retail can still survive.
Tommy and Giulio Caraceni
tommyegiuliocaraceni.com
My tailor since 2023. There is probably little that I can write here about T&G Caraceni that has not been written already. For anyone who is interested in a deep dive, please read the review published here in PS.
A bespoke tailor of the highest quality, T&G offers a cut that sits somewhere between the strong and square Milanese and the soft and rounder Neapolitan, which has changed little since Domenico Caraceni founded the house almost 100 years ago.
The house has dressed some of the most famous Italian and European actors, politicians and businessmen of the 20th and 21st centuries, and is probably the best representation left in Italy of the ‘Italian Industrialist’ look that many people such as me so desire.
Gaetano Aloisio
www.gaetanoaloisio.com
Aloisio is a famous bespoke tailor reviewed in PS by Bruce Boyer here. Aloisio is one of the few high-end Roman or Milanese tailors who travels and is known to serve an international clientele, especially in the Middle East and Asia.
Aloisio also has a ready to wear offering of casual clothing and accessories made of the most luxurious materials.
Sartoria Ripense
www.sartoriaripense.com
Ripense is a bespoke tailor located near Piazza del Popolo, loved by Manish Puri and my friend Paul Fournier. Readers who are interested can read a full review here. I have not tried anything myself, but with those two vouching for their work I can only trust that the product is excellent.
Stivaleria Mercurio
www.mercurio1932.it
My shoe maker since 2022. Stivaleria Mercurio is a third generation bespoke shoe maker run by the father and son team, Antonio and Lorenzo Mercurio.
Antonio Mercurio was trained by his father and the Roman shoemaker Angelo Gatto, and is the official bootmaker of the Italian Carabinieri’s mounted regiment and the Corazzieri honour guard of the President of the Republic. Among Italian lovers of bespoke footwear, Gatto’s shoes are considered legendary and Mercurio is known to be his rightful heir.
Mercurio is the first bespoke shoemaker I have found who manages to combine a deep knowledge of the anatomy and physiology of the foot with an aesthetic sense of beautiful shoes. They literally saved my feet and I would not go anywhere else to have shoes made.
The workshop is located in the barracks of the Carabinieri mounted cavalry regiment, which is worth a visit on its own. Bespoke shoes start at €2300 plus VAT.
Marini
calzoleriamarini.com
Gianni Agnelli’s shoemaker, who has a beautiful shop on Via Francesco Crispi. I have not personally tried them but the product looks to be of very good quality. Marini were mentioned previously in PS here.
Bocache & Salvucci
bocachesalvucci.com
Very beautiful shop with locations on Via Sistina and Via Francesco Crispi offering RTW of the highest quality, as well as bespoke shoes and tailoring. Due to the largely international clientele, much of the offering won’t be what PS readers are looking for, but one can be sure that the materials used are exceptional. B&S were reviewed in PS here.
Teodori Brothers
teodoribrothers.it
A superb value, family-run shirtmaker which is favoured by Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers. They carry a wide range of cloths and have some great collar styles – all inspired by film and TV – to chose from. Manish is currently in the middle of a commission with Teodori, and a review is expected later this year.
Shops
Rome, like Paris and London, is a massive city and very spread out. Given that size, it isn’t possible to list all of the interesting shops in one article. I have tried to mention a few which are mainly clustered in a few areas away from the usual designer shops on Via Condotti and Via del Babuino, and the high street offering of Via del Corso.
Cruciani & Bella
www.crucianiebella.com
A lovely small shop on the first floor of an apartment building on Via Bocca di Leone. Cruciani & Bella specialises in men’s accessories and has a nice selection of ties, socks, pocket squares, scarves and braces from English and Italian makers.
Giki
www.giki.it
The elegant Trieste-Salaria residential area has a number of nice independent menswear shops, of which Giki is one. Probably the best independent shoe store in Rome, selling brands such as Edward Green, Baudoin & Lange and Alden.
Gentleman
www.gentlemansabatello.it
A menswear shop from another era on Via Po, offering a great selection of cashmere and shetland knitwear made for them in Italy and Scotland. Villa Borghese is another interesting multi-brand shop offering brands such as Valstar and is not far away.
Schostal
www.schostalroma.com
Schostal needs no introduction for PS readers, as it was reviewed here in the past. The best location in the city for socks, pyjamas, underwear and other basics. There are other Schostal businesses in Rome, but the location on Via della Fontanella di Borghese is the best and most central for visitors.
Eurotex
www.eurotex-rome.com
Eurotex is a cloth merchant that is relatively unknown to tailors outside Italy, located a short walk from the Vatican. Their range is small compared to larger merchants such as Harrison’s or Drapers, but a few of their bunches such as cashmere jacketings, cotton drill and worsted cashmere suiting are exceptional.
Typical of many more traditional Italians, they have a preference for English wool and Scottish cashmere and much of their selection is made to their own designs.
Huit Cinq
huitcinq1988.bigcartel.com
Huit Cinq is a bespoke maker of watch straps and other small leather goods, owned by Federico De Peppo. I’ve had a few straps made by him in a broad range of more and less exotic leathers and have been very satisfied. Huit Cinq works with clients around the world and ships globally.
Gammarelli
gammarelli.com
An ecclesiastical tailor and the provider of socks to members of the clergy, Gammarelli is a gorgeous little shop and worth a trip. They make lovely cotton lisle socks in many colours, other than the red, black and purple they are most famous for.
LGR is an Italian eyewear brand founded in Rome with shops in Milan, Florence and Venice. While the quality is not at the levels of bespoke artisans such as Maison Bonnet or EB Meyrowitz, many of the designs are interesting and LGR provides a nice, discreet alternative to ubiquitous luxury branded sunglasses.
Atelier Bomba
atelierbomba.com
Atelier Bomba is a lovely shop near the Piazza del Popolo making hand made knitwear and tailoring for men and women onsite. It is a true artisanal shop, a wonderful place to spend time and a group of people who are really passionate about small-scale production. Simon covered them previously in PS here.
Chez Dedé
www.chezdede.com
Chez Dedé is a multibrand shop on Via Monseratto selling accessories, books, and furniture. It has real character – as the best multibrand always do – and it’s the kind of place that makes you feel like you’re part of someone else’s world. Also a nice street to wander away from the crowds. It was covered in more depth on PS here.
Ottica Astrologo
otticastrologo.com
Ottica Astrologo is an independent optician on Via della Fontanella di Borghese, virtually next door to Schostal and LGR. Manish featured three pairs of sunglasses recommended by Astrologo in his article in PS. Astrologo also has a location on Via Po, very near to Gentleman and Villa Borghese, for readers who venture in that direction.
Giuliva Heritage
www.giulivaheritage.com
Giuliva Heritage is a very interesting brand making men’s and women’s tailoring founded by Margherita Cardelli and Gerardo Cavaliere that was featured in PS here. The look is a bit stronger than many PS readers would naturally gravitate to, but is certainly very cool. Giuliva has an atelier than can be visited on appointment on Via Monserrato, close to Chez Dedé.
A Sartorial Roman Holiday
For readers who want an alternative to visiting the usual sites in Rome, I have provided some suggestions below for a sartorial ‘Roman Holiday’. I assume that many who don’t live in Rome will stay somewhere in the centre and my Holiday has been designed for everything to be within easy walking distance from Piazza del Popolo or Piazza di Spagna.
Breakfast at Rosati
For me, the best way to start the day in Rome is with coffee at Rosati, preferably early before the Piazza del Popolo starts to fill up with people. Looking towards the Pincio from the Tiber side of the piazza on a sunny day never ceases to put me in a good mood.
Before Lunch
From Piazza del Popolo, many of the shops and ateliers mentioned above are within an easy walk. I would suggest focusing on a few streets that have a high concentration of independent retail and artisans, such as Via Ripetta (Sartoria Ripense), Via dell’Oca (Atelier Bomba), and Via della Fontanella di Borghese (Schostal, Ottica Astrologo, LGR).
Lunch at Settimio all’Arancio
After all that walking, readers will have worked up an appetite. Settimio all’Arancio on Via dell’Arancio is a family-owned restaurant serving a mainly Italian clientele of politicians and businessmen that is hard to beat.
After Lunch
In order to work off the calories ingested at lunch, I would suggest readers carry on towards the Regola neighbourhood, which has a high concentration of interesting independent retail. Via Monseratto is particularly interesting, with Chez Dedé, Giuliva Heritage and Le Tre Sarte (https://www.letresarte.com/, for PS readers’ better halves) representing highlights.
The Aperitivo
The aperitivo before dinner is an institution in Rome. It is worth noting that meal times in Rome are later than Northern Europe or even Northern Italy, with most locals not meeting for the aperitivo before 7pm or dinner before 8.30pm.
Some of my favourite places for the aperitivo are Salotto 42 in Piazza di Pietra, which is particularly beautiful when the bougainvillaea are blooming, or the roof terrace of the Hotel Locarno, the hotel which is said to have provided inspiration for Wes Anderson’s film the Grand Budapest Hotel. If readers are looking for something a bit more laid back, Enotoca Buccone on Via Ripetta is a very nice wine bar.
Dinner
If any readers are still hungry after all of that walking, one cannot go wrong with dinner at Al San Lorenzo, which offers some of the best fish in Rome.
