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Let’s be honest. The cycling got me interested. But what sealed the deal? The promise of eating my way through Southern France while riding just enough miles to justify it. That’s how I landed on Experience Plus’s Provence to Pyrenees Plus! France bike tour (and culinary voyage)—a glorious 10-day mashup of medieval castles, countryside climbs, and a full-on love affair with French food.
Markets, bakeries, and the art of the mid-ride picnic
Each morning started with flaky, buttery croissants that practically melted the moment they hit my tongue. As we cycled from town to town, every charming village—no matter how tiny—served up a symphony of flavors. Market stalls overflowed with ruby-red strawberries, plump cherries, and bundles of fresh asparagus. The scent of freshly baked bread wafted from boulangeries, luring me in for baguettes I could barely fit into my panniers – but of course, I found a way. Cured meats dangled like edible trophies, begging to be part of our daily picnics.
We would swoop into markets and emerge like culinary magicians, arms full of fresh produce, creamy cheeses, and crusty loaves. At scenic roadside spots, we’d pause for open-air feasts that would put most restaurants to shame. I swear, food tastes 200% better when you’re slightly sweaty, surrounded by breathtaking beauty.
The unexpected gourmet gems of Southern France
You’d expect the big cities to bring their A-game, and they did. In Carcassonne, I devoured a cassoulet that was pure decadence: tender duck confit swimming in a sea of white beans, slow-cooked to velvety perfection. My fork barely had to work. Sitting inside a medieval fortress while eating it? Chef’s kiss.
But the real magic often came from unexpected places. Like the tiny village restaurant we stumbled upon one Sunday afternoon, thanks to the EP chalk arrows. Inside, the owners were running a one-couple culinary empire: she cooked, he served, and the locals filled every table. I ordered the truffle fettuccine with a raw egg yolk resting on top like a golden jewel. Was it the chilled rosé or the fact that we only had 12 miles left to ride? Either way, it felt like one of the best meals of my life.
Sete: Oysters, boats, and breaking personal records
When we reached Sete, I thought I was prepared for the seafood. I was not. First, we toured the oyster farms by boat, gliding past rows of suspended oyster lines as our guide explained the delicate aquaculture process that makes Sete oysters some of the most coveted in France.
Then came the eating. Platters of briny, silky oysters appeared. I set a personal record for oyster consumption, and frankly, I regret nothing. (My cholesterol may disagree.) Add a chilled glass of crisp local Picpoul de Pinet wine, and the entire scene bordered on obscene levels of French perfection.
Les 3 Barbus: A culinary high point (literally and figuratively)
Tucked away in the Cévennes mountains, Les 3 Barbus wasn’t just another hotel stop—it was a full-blown culinary experience. After a day of riding through winding mountain roads and postcard-perfect valleys, we arrived at this family-run inn perched high above a deep gorge, with panoramic views that made you instantly reach for your camera.
But it was the food that stole the show. Over two nights, Chef Michel Marvie delivered multi-course meals that were nothing short of edible artwork. Each plate was a perfectly choreographed balance of rich flavors and delicate textures—think foie gras with just-picked local figs, tender lamb that practically melted on the fork, and desserts that could make grown cyclists cry. (I might have shed a tear or two.)
Add in the cozy dining room, the impeccable service, and the fact that I didn’t have to change out of my cycling clothes immediately (don’t worry—I cleaned up for dinner), and it felt like the ultimate reward after a day of hard work in the saddle.
If Sete was all about oysters and sea air, Les 3 Barbus was a mountain retreat for the taste buds—a gastronomic oasis where calories didn’t count (at least that’s what I told myself).
Chalk arrows: Structured freedom
Of course, we weren’t just eating (okay, we were mostly eating). We were also cycling, and Experience Plus’s low-tech navigation system was genius. Each day, we followed hand-drawn chalk arrows around the south of France instead of staring at bike computers or fumbling with apps.
Want to leave early? Fine. Prefer a leisurely breakfast? Bon appétit. Ride solo? Group up? Stop for 100 poppy photos? All good. Those arrows gave me the structure I needed with the freedom I craved. They even included cheeky messages before tough climbs, with my favorite being a jubilant “TOP!” at the summit.
But the arrows weren’t just functional—they were like little personal tour guides sprinkled along the road. Some pointed out nearby historical sites or upcoming photo-worthy viewpoints, giving me plenty of reasons to hop off the bike and soak it all in. Others alerted me to sharp turns or sneaky detours ahead. And best of all? The occasional arrow that simply read “BAKERY” with a bold, promising arrowhead leading me directly to flaky croissant heaven. Honestly, those bakery arrows may have been my true guiding force through France.
Choosing your ride: Traditional bike or sweet, sweet e-Bike
I started the tour on a traditional road bike, pushing myself through the miles and climbs with sheer will (and the promise of more cheese at the end). It was challenging—no doubt—but the sense of accomplishment after each climb was equally satisfying.
For journalistic purposes (that’s my story and I’m sticking to it), I switched to an electric road bike for the final three days. And let me tell you: it was like gliding across a creamy Brie — effortlessly smooth. The steep climbs became scenic strolls, and I had far more time to look around and fully soak in the stunning landscapes. Experience Plus offers a range of electric bikes depending on your comfort and fitness level, so you can customize the trip to match your abilities—whether you’re a cycling beast or just want to coast and enjoy the scenery.
Castles, cloisters, and my Queribus obsession
The Southern France scenery and medieval villages were straight out of a fairytale, and every stop on the route offered its own flavor of history, charm, and surprises.
Nîmes: Roman relics still rocking
Starting our Southern France cycling tour in Nîmes felt like pedaling straight into a living history book. At the heart of the city stands the Roman amphitheater—fully intact and still hosting concerts and bullfights like it’s just another Saturday night. I wandered through its ancient stone corridors, imagining gladiators pacing the arena (though thankfully, my only battle that day was with a particularly large gelato cone). The city oozes Roman influence, from its aqueducts to its public squares, blending ancient history with modern French life seamlessly. And yes, the wine bars surrounding the arena? Highly recommended.
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert: A medieval time capsule
Nestled at the edge of dramatic limestone cliffs, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert was like stepping into a perfectly preserved medieval postcard. The cobbled streets wound through honey-colored stone buildings adorned with flower boxes bursting in spring bloom. The highlight for me was seeing its ancient abbey and cloister—part of which, I realized I’d seen years earlier at The Cloisters museum in New York City. Talk about a full-circle moment! Sitting beneath the village’s 165-year-old Liberty Tree while enjoying a café au lait, I couldn’t help but feel like I’d unlocked one of Southern France’s best-kept secrets.
Carcassonne: Medieval fantasy meets modern comfort
Cycling into Carcassonne felt like I’d been cast as an extra in a medieval movie. The fortified city rises dramatically from the surrounding countryside, its towering ramparts and pointed turrets visible from miles away. As we crossed the drawbridge on our bikes, bumping over cobblestones, I half-expected a fanfare of trumpets. Instead, I was greeted by the promise of two nights inside the walled city at a luxurious 5-star hotel that made me forget my sore legs (thanks to the bubble bath!). Carcassonne’s narrow lanes, churches, and atmospheric wine bars delivered a perfect blend of touristy fun and authentic charm.
A spin along the Canal du Midi
After a few days of climbing, the route delivered a welcome reprieve: smooth miles along the Canal du Midi. Barges floated lazily beside us, some packed with vacationers sipping rosé, while others glided under old stone bridges. The canal’s 17th-century locks operate today like clockwork—a bit of engineering magic that once revolutionized trade routes in Southern France.
Queribus Fortress – the Crown Jewel
Queribus was the grand finale, and she made us earn it. After days of rolling hills, vineyards, and canal paths, we faced our biggest challenge: a steep, unrelenting climb up to the fortress. But once I reached the top, every burning muscle was worth it. Perched at 2,400 feet on a narrow rocky peak, this 13th-century Cathar stronghold felt like the set of a fantasy epic. The wind howled around us as I stood atop the jagged stone walls, with panoramic views stretching from the Mediterranean Sea to the Pyrenees. It wasn’t just a photo op—it was a victory lap for the entire trip.
The guides: Our bike whisperers and snack providers
Sophie and Frederico were the ultimate guides. They kept our bikes running smoothly, fed us chocolate at strategic moments, filled wine glasses like pros, and answered every random historical question about Southern France we threw at them. They even executed a perfectly timed rescue when I got caught in an afternoon lightning storm! Unlike many other cycling operators, Experience Plus guides only work for EP, which is a sign of a great company.
Why I’d do it again
This was my first Experience Plus tour, but now I’m ruined for any other kind of biking travel. Somehow, they’ve figured out how to combine the best of solo adventure (freedom, flexibility, no herding) with the best of group support (logistics handled, luggage moved, culinary wizardry, local guides who actually care).
If you want to eat ridiculous amounts of croissants, drink local wine in castle courtyards, discover medieval towns you never knew existed, and still feel like you’re steering your own adventure, this is your trip – it’s an unforgettable experience. Just follow the chalk arrows. And bring stretchy pants.
About Experience Plus: Family-owned freedom on two wheels
Experience Plus isn’t your average tour company. Founded over 50 years ago by a pair of adventurous parents, it’s now proudly woman-owned and run by their daughters, two sisters who grew up steeped in cycling culture. They offer bike tours across Europe and beyond, blending cultural immersion with incredible cycling routes. Whether you’re craving Tuscan hills, Dalmatian coastlines, or (like me) the medieval magic of Southern France, Experience Plus delivers thoughtfully curated experiences with just the right balance of support and independence. And yes, they’re as passionate about good food and wine as they are about perfectly tuned derailleurs.
See all of the Experience Plus! Tours here.
FAQs: Cycling Tour Southern France with Experience Plus
Is this cycling tour difficult? It can be! Some days involve long distances or sustained climbs, especially as you approach the Pyrenees. But Experience Plus allows you to choose your bike (standard road, hybrid, or e-bike) to match your comfort and fitness level. With an e-bike, even the steepest climbs become enjoyable sightseeing rides.
Do I need to be an experienced cyclist? No! As long as you’re reasonably fit and comfortable riding for multiple hours, you can absolutely do this tour. E-bikes are an excellent option if you want to focus more on scenery and less on sweating. Plus, there is a support vehicle driven by one of the guides every day. So if you have reached the end of your energy, feel free to take the van!
What makes Experience Plus different from other bike tour companies? Their unique chalk arrow navigation system allows riders true flexibility and freedom while still enjoying full tour support, cultural immersion, and amazing local guides.
What kind of food can I expect? Prepare to eat very well: local produce, daily markets, bakery stops, gourmet multi-course meals, oysters fresh from the water in Sete, cassoulet in Carcassonne, and decadent countryside picnics. This is a cycling tour for food lovers.
When is the best time to take this tour? Spring and early summer are especially lovely with fields of blooming poppies, seasonal cherries and strawberries, and ideal cycling weather. I did the tour in May.
See my entire list of favorite bike gear on my Amazon Store
How to pack for Experience Plus bike tours
Experience Plus provides you with one high-quality jersey that is yours to keep! They also provide a water bottle, snacks, electrolytes, GPS route files, and luggage tags. They also provide a simple tire repair kit and a multi-purpose tool in case you run into problems on the route.
In addition to your EP gift jersey, you’ll also want to bring a couple of other pairs of bike kits. I brought three pairs of padded shorts and washed them out each night to be used again two days later. Don’t forget rain gear too – there were a few days when we really needed this!
I love the Velorosa Cycling kit for women, so I packed all of my favorite colorful and good-looking Velorosa kits, of course. I like the Velorosa kit not only because it’s cute, but you also have layers. I brought a long-sleeved jersey and a short-sleeved jersey. I also brought sleeves as the temps always started cool and then got much hotter throughout the day.
Don’t forget your helmet, cycling gloves, cycling shoes, sunglasses, and sunscreen!
Other items you may want to consider packing:
- Bike Mirror (I brought mine because I’m so dependent on it). Safety first!!
- Garmin radar and Garmin Edge bike computer with holders. This is my normal setup I use when cycling on roads at home, and they are what I’m comfortable with. It was important for me to have them – plus they were small and didn’t take up much packing space! The guides helped me install them.
- You can also bring your own saddle if you have one that you love and the guides will install.
- Your own pedals. If you bring your clipless cycling shoes with cleats, then also bring your pedals that are specific to your type of cleat. Guides will put your pedals on and take them off for you at the end of the tour.
Don’t forget the biking gear!
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Great lightwieght fully waterproof jacket for cycling and can be used for hiking or travel. The Pac-lite material is very light and breathable – perfect for outdoor adventure.
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07/24/2025 11:03 pm GMT
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These are a great easy layer for cold mornings that roll up really small and can fit in the back of your jersey when you get hot.
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07/24/2025 11:03 pm GMT
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I can only wear prescription lenses and these tifosi lenses can have your prescription added. This is essential for biking when vision is essential. You can customize everything from color to mirror, to prescription with Tifosi.
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My go-to hydration for biking and hiking. Box contains one tube of each flavor: Lemon Lime, Tri-Berry, Citrus Fruit, and Orange. Four tubes and 40 servings total.
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07/24/2025 11:04 pm GMT
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Great for long rides, padded and provides sun protection.
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Everyone needs a little padding…
These are comfortable shorts, lightweight, and breathable
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07/24/2025 11:05 pm GMT
Wondering what gear you should take with you on your first bike tour? I did buy a pair of those padded bike shorts, but wasn’t really a fan. Here are some other biking gear suggestions from my buddies at Travel Past 50!
Other cycling adventures
I have a big interest in seeing more of the US at a slow pace. The Capitol to Capitol Quest is the perfect way to do that. It take me primarily through the rural parts of the US, where I can soak up that lesser-seen American culture. I have a love of traveling to lesser-known places, and this project will take me through the heart of America and those less-seen regions.
Disclosure: I was a guest of Experience Plus Bike tours for this trip, however all pedaling was done by me! In addition, all opinions expressed here are mine.
