The ‘fly’ of a flag refers to the length of the flag that extends outward from the staff or pole; it is the part that is free to move and flutter in the wind. As the flag is attached at one end and loose at the other, it allows for it to wave or ‘fly’ in the breeze. A fly front is a fabric flap covering an opening in a garment.
Recently, I was at a dinner party and knowing that I was in the fashion biz, someone asked me, “why do they call a zipper on a jean, a ‘fly’ front zipper?” For a person who has spent their adult life designing fashion, writing about fashion and teaching fashion, Fashion Institute of Technology, Academy of Art University, and as the founder of University of Fashion, I was dumb struck! I didn’t have a clue as to why that particular zipper application is called a ‘fly’ front.
Other zipper applications are self-explanatory: a ‘lapped’ or ‘door’ zipper looks like a door; a centered zipper application is just that, centered; and an invisible zipper, well, you get the point. But why is the fly front zipper called a ‘fly’? Here’s what I learned.
The Origin Story of the Fly Front
The word ‘fly’ comes from the notion of something attached by one edge, like a flag or a flap. In garment construction, a ‘fly’ is a piece of material that covers an opening, ensuring modesty and comfort.
By the 19th century, tailors used ‘fly’ to refer to the flap covering the opening in men’s trousers. This term predates the invention of zippers, as early trousers used buttons or simply overlapping fabric.
Fly Front Zipper (Image Credit: University of Fashion)
When zippers were introduced in the early 20th century, they became the preferred fastener for the fly. However, the term ‘fly’ continued to refer to the flap and the opening, not the zipper itself.
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