Elie Saab took a decidedly casual turn with his latest resort collection, leaning into denim, cotton twill trousers and capri leggings. The Lebanese house presented an elevated yet relaxed wardrobe, describing it as “trans-seasonal” – a lineup built on clean, crisp essentials.
A quick unzip transformed a classic trench coat into a pleated skirt, while Saab’s bomber jackets struck a balance between slouchy ease and polished tailoring. Trousers came high-waisted and wide-legged, while jeans sat low on the hips with a gentle bell curve at the hem.
His pursuit of simplicity was clear in safari shirts, poplin day dresses with macramé touches, whisper-thin cashmere-silk knits, and delicate lace tanks with lingerie-inspired details. Even suiting had a twist – think silk pajama sets paired with sharp jackets, or two-piece coordinates anchored with full skirts.
Office Siren take note: Saab also offered pencil skirts with lace trim, and lingerie underpinnings topped with fitted blazers.
This season, the designer tempered his signature flair for color, instead favoring a pared-back palette of black, white and camel, punctuated by pops of coral, lemon yellow and pale chartreuse.
Even evening wear from the couturier felt airier. Saab, known for his opulent embroidery, offered streamlined silhouettes in shimmering knits that skimmed the body, and sequined columns were frequently off the shoulder or asymmetrical. Emphasizing his new casual sensibility, breezy silk chiffon gowns were paired with sandals.
The injection of insouciance was by design; Saab has been clear on his intention to move the brand in a more youthful direction. This collection will offer plenty of entry points for potential new customers.
On the accessories front, Saab’s is riding the Wave – the clutch originally designed by Greek-Austrian Marina Raphael after she became artistic and design director of handbags in late 2024. This season, it has been reimagined in bamboo and in a strapped version that pairs more practically with his daywear.
