Recently a few readers have asked about my dislike of quarter-zip (and half-zip) sweaters. This is probably, at least in part, because they’ve become so popular – both as a finance-office staple and as fashion.
In the same way as navy chinos, my objection to quarter zips is narrower than people often remember. The issue is also partly a result of that popularity (again like navy chinos). Men think they’re the answer to everything because they go with everything; but they’re not, because they don’t. Just with some things.
The idea is that a quarter zip is great because it can be worn with a shirt, but also with a T-shirt. Thus you can wear the same thing at work and at the weekend, and not have to think about it.
Unfortunately, most of the time a quarter zip doesn’t look great with a shirt. The sharp collar of the shirt points downwards, diagonally towards the arms, and the soft collar of the knit points upwards, diagonally towards the ears. The two are always going to butt against each other, and not sit together effectively or elegantly.
The quarter-zip sweater was originally a piece of sportswear, and it works best today over something like a T-shirt, with free rein to be zipped or unzipped. In that position it is both functional and flattering – framing the face nicely when it is open, and having an effect akin to a roll neck when zipped up under an overcoat.
A collared shirt has other knitwear that’s designed to work with it – a crewneck or a V-neck – and generally they sit much better with the collar.
The only issue with a crewneck or V-neck is that it’s harder to wear with a T-shirt – a topic it’s probably worth doing a separate article on at some point. And, a little depressingly, sometimes people say they’re too much fuss.
This came up recently in another article, where a reader was saying a crewneck is too hard to take on and off in the office, and so he wears a gilet.
Now, I get that some people are working very hard, are very tired, and clothing is nowhere near the top of their priority list. But it seems a little odd to take the time to read a niche blog about menswear, yet feel that taking off a crewneck is too much of a faff.
There’s perhaps another article here at some point – taking the time to enjoy, experience and maintain good clothing, in proportion to the time shopping for it. It’s something I’m certainly guilty of – I should spend more time having my clothes altered and cleaned, and in fact polishing my shoes, and less time browsing the internet in search of something new.
But I digress. I was saying, quarter zips can be great but they should be thought of primarily as sportswear. Now here come the caveats.
First, some shirt collars work better than others. A soft button-down oxford will roll outwards more with the neck of a quarter zip, and be a better partner than a stiff dress shirt. But still, I usually prefer a crewneck or a V-neck.
Second, sometimes the point of wearing a quarter zip with tailoring is the contrast with a sports wear. This is common in Ivy clothing. But, the point is that clash of ideas. If a clash is not what you’re going for, don’t wear it.
Third, wearing a quarter zip with a tie is in some ways better, because the shirt collar is tied down and flatter. It’s how they were worn originally, as ski wear and then for sports like golf. But still, these are different times and I’d prefer a V-neck.
Modern office uniforms are a little trickier than the suits and ties we had in the past, but not that hard.
Wear a soft-collared shirt, a nice crewneck sweater, a pair of chinos or tailored trousers, and a loafer/boot/derby. Just like a suit and tie, focus on good quality and a small number of pieces that go together. Top it off with a lightweight coat or jacket, and a heavier one. Sprinkle with accessories for interest.
A quarter zip is a great thing for the weekend, over a T-shirt, even if I personally wear collared knits like the Cashmere Rugby. And indeed prefer half zips to quarters – the latter can seem a little like V-necks that have all become too shallow, at least the shorter ones.
Lastly, there’s a current trend for extra-tall zipped collars, which fold down over the shoulders. I’ve tried this (above), and eventually found it too annoying that it doesn’t actually zip up, at least comfortably. There’s lots we can take from women’s fashions when it comes to half zips (see Chanel, below) but I don’t think that’s one of them.
