As we’ve had storms and generally bad weather in recent weeks, I’ve had requests from readers for a list of my favourite shoes for the rain and cold.
Now, the principles of what makes a good shoe for the rain in particular were laid out in this article. For more general guidance I’d read that first – it makes the argument for suede being more useful than you think for example. There’s also an accompanying piece on how to deal with the effects of bad weather.
But those don’t mention specific brands, or get into which ones would suit different outfits – different styles, different levels of formality. So here are my personal favourites, divided up into three levels of formality. Each has some brief notes, but if you would like any more advice, just let me know in the comments.
Smart (suits, sports jackets, tailored trousers)
1. Edward Green ‘Dover’ in black London Grain
Slim derbies like the EG Dover can be a good option with tailoring. Yes, it’s a split-toe derby so not that smart, but in a black leather, with a slim welt, slim last and slim sole, it’s smart enough, very comfortable and weather-resistant. Also one that can be worn into the next category, smart casual.
2. Alden full-strap loafer in Color-8 cordovan
The Dover was in a London Grain leather, and weather resistance is mostly about materials – grains, waxes, cordovan and to an extent, suede. Color-8 cordovan from Alden is something I wear a lot of, and while a loafer style is not as weather resistant, I still wear these a lot in the winter. I rarely have issues with my feet being cold though.
3. Crockett & Jones ‘Chukka’ in dark-brown suede
Suede is good because you can spray it and, unlike regular calf leather, it doesn’t get salt stains easily, which is the biggest thing that kills shoes in wet weather. Boots are hard to work with tailoring, but the slimmer and more refined in every respect (last, welt, sole etc) the more suitable it will be. All of these are easier with more casual tailoring of course – flannel suits and sports jackets rather then fine worsteds and blazers.
Smart/casual (cords, chinos, jeans, with knitwear/coats/smarter shoes)
1. RM Williams ‘Turnout’ boot in chestnut yearling leather
A great smart/casual outfit is leather boots, good jeans, a knit, and then outerwear to suit the weather. At a slightly lower price point, RM does good options here, often in waxy or weather-resistant leathers, and in chelsea-boot styles with fairly slim shapes and welts. The Turnout is a semi-round toe and a little smarter.
- Alternative: The same in the Gardener style, which is rounder and more casual. A popular one at Trunk.
2. Tod’s ‘Gommino’ boot in black suede
This is a slightly specialist one, as I have a pre-owned pair that I bought on eBay a couple of years ago that has a slimmer, more in-line sole than the current model sold by Tod’s. I love wearing it with smart-casual things, and with tailoring as a slightly alternative option (and of course, Agnelli-referencing one).
3. Alden NST in Color-8 cordovan
I’m trying to avoid repeating Edward Green and Alden, suede and cordovan, as it would be a pretty boring list, but they are my favourites. I have a pair of these ‘Norwegian split toes’ in the modified last from Moulded Shoe in New York and they are very comfortable, basically a slightly more casual version of the Dover mentioned above.
4. Edward Green ‘Cranleigh’ boot in dark-brown suede
This is my default, my go-to. Storm welt and a Dainite sole, but slim enough to retain some elegance. These have been worn everywhere and bashed up, but unlike a smarter shape actually look better for it.
- Alternative: The Bibury from Crocketts. A nice new style with an apron that gives it the feel of some of the derbies mentioned above.
Casual (jeans, chinos, with sweats and casual jackets/coats)
1. Viberg ‘Service Boot’ in chromexcel leather
Once you get into really casual shoes, there are lots and lots of options for bad weather. It’s the smarter stuff that’s trickier. My first choice here would be my Service Boots from Viberg, and the waxy chromexcel leather has been great in all conditions for me.
- Alternative: Red Wing moc-toe boot. A boot I associate a lot with a particular look in the 2010s, but looks better now with a wider jean, and ages really nicely.
The rough-and-ready, simple-construction desert boot is a good option here, with its stitchdown construction and crepe sole. Anglo-Italian does a nice one – I don’t wear it with tailoring in the way they style it, but it’s a nice upgrade on the normal crepe-soled boots like this.
3. August Special ‘Rambler’ hiking boot
Hiking boots are popular because they’re strong, warm, and frankly have been pretty fashionable in recent years. The August Special version is very comfortable – as you’d expect from them – and in good colours.
