The brown English Tweed – Permanent Style

This might be my favourite material we’ve ever designed. A brown version of the English Tweed fabric first launched a couple of years ago, it’s dark and subtle, with great depths in the mix of brown and black, plus natural flecks of cream and biscuit that add varied texture.

The yarn is still the natural colours of the sheep – it’s undyed wool, so those are the browns and blacks of the animal, without any bleach or colouring. This must be one of the reasons it looks so natural, and the material itself has a similarly organic feel of substance and pliability – it’s not scratchy, but has that feel of a natural fleece. 

The English Tweed was designed to be big and enveloping – something to wrap yourself up in during colder months – and so you get a lot of that wool to fasten round the body, with the double-breasted front buttoning all the way up to the chin. 

The fit is generous but can be cinched against the cold, and the buttoning is low and slouchy. While there are many materials we could use for something like the Donegal overcoat, the English Tweed really suits this type more than any other. 

The new brown version is available on the PS Shop now.

Apart from the material, the coat is exactly the same as the first one, introduced in 2023. Compared to that version, this brown English Tweed has the advantage that it sits alongside a grey, navy or indeed camel Donegal coat, offering an nice alternative colour, unlike the grey first version. 

But the design is the same: a belt that fastens by doubling back on itself; a waist button on the hip and then two rows all the way up; a pleat in the back that allows freedom of movement without letting in any cold blasts of air. 

The two hip pockets are lined with cashmere, but also have a slit that allows access to larger ones on the inside of the coat. These so-called ‘through’ pockets enable you to access something larger like a book or a pair of gloves without having to unbutton the coat. 

And the slanted pockets on the chest do the same thing – even with the coat buttoned all the way up, you can access a slanted pocket tucked just behind the lapel, and so get to your phone or wallet.

As is often the case with these coats, we’ve focused in today’s article on what’s different about the new version – it’s colour and texture. If you’re unfamiliar with the design and would like to see things like all the ways it buttons up, have a look at the original launch article here. 

That article also shows the through-pockets, and has more angles on the silhouette. Today is more about the vibe.

Fortunately, when we photographed this coat it wasn’t too hot, and I was able to stroll around Greenwich and the park, wrapping and buttoning myself up. It reminded me of the pleasure of walking in a big coat: pushing it behind you when the cold doesn’t require anything more, stuffing the pockets with everything you need for the day. 

In these images I’ve worn the coat with just one outfit – a Rubato lambswool crewneck, a PS undershirt, black 501s, Edward Green boots and a Trunk scarf: a cold-colour smart-casual look. 

But the English Tweed works equally well with tailoring, as shown in that launch piece with a cord suit, a shirt and a knit tie. I’ve tried wearing the new colour with grey and dark-navy suits and it’s very nice, as well as a variety of jackets. Most menswear colours are good – even olive, if it’s dark. 

The cloth was woven by Marling & Evans in Huddersfield and made by Private White in Manchester, so along with the English wool it’s a very locally sourced coat. The horn buttons are Italian, but then these particular dusty, matte ones are our favourite and a bit of a signature. They also go particularly nicely with the dark brown.

The English Tweed coat is available on the PS Shop now.

Details:

• Low-slung, slouchy double-breasted raglan coat 
• Made from undyed 800g English wool, woven in Huddersfield by Marling & Evans
• Belt with leather buckle, unholed to double back on itself
• Two-hole matte horn buttons
• Cashmere-lined hip pockets, both with through pockets to larger pockets inside
• Two in-breast slanted pockets
• Manufactured by Private White VC in Manchester

Fit: 

• A generous body fit and length, designed to be cinched for warmth
• In the pictures Simon wears a Medium (4)
• He wears a size 40 (50 European) suit jacket and is six feet tall (183cm)
• Fits the same size as other Private White-made outerwear (apart from the Bridge Coat)
• If in doubt, compare measurements to a coat you already own, bearing in mind the fit is meant to be generous. Don’t worry if it looks or feels a little big
• Chest is measured 2.5cm below underarm; waist at 47cm down centre back; length from bottom of collar at the back, to hem

Alterations:

The English Tweed overcoat is made to be easy to alter.

• Cut a little longer than most modern overcoats, both to be more practical and flattering
• But can easily be shortened by a tailor – a good 10cm without interrupting the balance or making the back pleat look too short
• Can also be lengthened slightly if needed, by around 4cm. Inlay is left for that purpose
• The sleeves can also be lengthened by around 3cm, and they can be shortened. Shortening by 2cm would be easy – more than that would require the wrist strap to be moved, but that is not a big job for a tailor
• The body can also be narrowed, but this isn’t necessarily recommended, as the style is supposed to be roomy. We wouldn’t suggest taking more than an inch on each side (still four inches in circumference). It can also be let out around 3cm on either side

Size chart: