Alexander McQueen collection inspired by Leigh Bowery Autumn/Winter 2009, titled “Horn of Plenty.” (Image credit: vogue.com)
Fashion designers don’t just wait for inspiration—they chase it like it’s the last slice of pizza at a fashion week afterparty. Sure, their process sounds elegant, but at heart, it takes talent, skill, tons of research and a thing called a Process Book to help them develop their ideas. Being inspired isn’t just about people-watching mixed with Pinterest marathons, or copying some bold teenager’s outfit and calling it couture. It’s a process.
In a previous blog, guest writer Annabella Lawlor covered the six ‘must see’ fashion museum exhibitions for 2025 as great sources of inspiration for fashion designers. This week I’ll expand on the topic of inspirational sources and how designers organize their ideas that later turn into product. It starts with the Process Book.
The Process Book
University of Fashion’s lesson on How to Create a Process Book by Nicole Bisono
Designers are like walking sponges, always in tune with their surroundings. With brains that process information like mini-computers, designers are constantly observing and engaging. They dive into books, music, films, art, architecture, are hyper-tuned into cultural events and politics, and even travel to remote places to find inspiration. Everything that sparks an idea gets recorded in a thing called a Process Book.
They take photos, hoard fabric scraps, collect flowers or other interesting tidbits and scribble tons of design details. They endlessly sketch things that can later be used in future collections. It becomes a treasure chest full of ideas.
Did you know that sometimes a prospective employer will require a job applicant to show their process book? It’s a great way for a company to see the designer’s creative thought process.
Interesting Sources of Inspiration
Olivier Rousteing for Balmain’s 2012 Fabergé egg-inspired collection (Image credit vogue.com)
Among the objects that have provided inspiration include the Fabergé egg from the 19th and early 20th Russian court. Under the creative direction of Olivier Rousteing, the Balmain Fall/Winter 2012 collection was heavily inspired by the opulent and intricate artistry of these eggs, which today can be worth millions of dollars, in fact some exceeding $30 million. This collection translated the grandeur of the iconic eggs into elaborate clothing designs, featuring meticulous embellishments, crystals, pearls, and golden threads.
Dolce & Gabbana’s playing card inspiration in their Spring 2018 collection (Image credit: in digital.tv)
Another inspiring object is the playing card. In 2018, Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2018 collection, titled Amore e Bellezza (Love is Beauty), drew inspiration from the Queen of Hearts, a romantic 1950s aesthetic, and elements of Italian food and family tradition. The show featured a lavish set with giant playing cards and a carpeted runway, with models adorned in clothing and accessories reflecting these themes.
Artists Inspiring Artists
(Image credit: agnuacouture.com)
Sometimes fashion designers are inspired by artists. One of the most popular sources of inspiration has been Australian-born performance artist Leigh Bowery (1961-1994), who became one of Britain’s most heroically ambitious, yet underappreciated designer/performance artists. Bowery’s work has had a profound impact on designers beginning in the 80s & early 90s, inspiring designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Gareth Pugh, Alexander McQueen, Maison Martin Margiela and many others.
(Image credit: agnuacouture.com)
Bowery used sexuality as his primary mode of artistic expression. His work continues to be a treasure throve of inspiration for fashion designers up to the present day.
Leigh Bowery-inspired collection by John Galliano (Image credit: Steven Meisel for Vogue)
Through his outrageous costumes, dramatic masquerades, and theatrical cross-dressing, Bowery pushed the boundaries of fashion and the body.
(Image credit: agnautacouture.com)
Bowery significantly influenced numerous artists across various disciplines, including musicians like Boy George, Antony and the Johnsons, Lady Gaga, and Scissor Sisters. Bowery’s distinctive physiognomy with exaggerated red lips and other bold, sculptural references are all iconic Bowery looks. This influence is widely recognized within the fashion industry for its theatricality and vivid, avant-garde aesthetics directly channeling Bowery’s irreverent style and creativity.
A Leigh Bowery-inspired look from Maison Martin Margiela (Image credit: agnautacouture.com)
For more on this kitch artist, read last week’s UoF blog, where we covered the Leigh Bowery! exhibition at the Tate Modern, which showcases his “Looks” and collaborations with other artists.
