University of Fashion’s 3-part series on creating handsewn buttonholes. (Image credit: University of Fashion)
Fashion has its own language—and nowhere is that more delightfully apparent than in the art of handsewn buttonholes. If you’ve ever felt that couture insiders are speaking in code when they discuss their sewing tools, consider this your glossary moment. Better yet, Andrew Curwen’s handsewn buttonhole video series serves as your guide, translating each term into a skill you can master with confidence.
Creating a truly refined handsewn buttonhole begins with a carefully selected toolkit: polyester thread for basting, silk buttonhole twist, gimp, hymo, a #7 sharps needle, and an open-top thimble. Each element plays a distinct role in achieving that crisp, elevated finish.
Buttonhole Twist
This is the star of the process—the thread used to form the dense blanket stitches that define the buttonhole’s edge. Strong, smooth, and slightly lustrous, silk buttonhole twist is the couture standard. Whether you choose a matching shade for subtlety or a contrasting color for emphasis, this thread carries both the structure and the visual impact.
Gimp
Gimp is a thicker thread that sits beneath the buttonhole stitches, giving them dimension and a beautifully raised profile. While finding an exact color match can be challenging, Andrew Curwen offers an ingenious solution in his three-part series: a method for creating perfectly matched gimp, ensuring both precision and polish.
Hymo
Hymo is a hair canvas interfacing that provides essential internal support. Available in various weights and in both fusible and non-fusible options, it reinforces the fabric layers, helping the buttonhole maintain its shape and durability over time.
#7 Sharps Needle
Sharps are versatile hand-sewing needles with a sharp point and a round eye, available in sizes 1 through 12. For buttonholes, a size 7 strikes the ideal balance—fine enough for precise, tight stitches, yet sturdy enough to handle multiple layers.
Open-Top Thimble
An open-top metal thimble protects your finger while allowing greater sensitivity and control. It helps push the needle cleanly through the fabric, making it an essential tool for the repetitive, controlled motions required in buttonhole work.
The Process
The steps for making a Straight Handsewn Buttonhole: 1) baste & mark the buttonhole before slitting the buttonhole opening, 2) Twist silk buttonhole thread to create gimp, 3) baste gimp to slit, 4) blanket-stitching the buttonhole, 5) bar tacking one edge, 6) finished buttonhole. Mastering handsewn buttonholes is as much about understanding your tools as it is about technique. With the right materials—and expert guidance from Andrew Curwen—you can transform what seems like a meticulous detail into a signature mark of craftsmanship. In the end, these small, deliberate stitches speak volumes, elevating a garment from simply made to truly exceptional.
Not a UoF Subscriber? Watch our Video Previews
Click on the link to view our video previews: Handsewn Straight Buttonholes, Handsewn Rounded Buttonholesand Handsewn Keyhole Buttonhole.
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