A little late this year, but hopefully this year’s A/W highlights has something for everyone – mid to high price, smart and casual, classic and modern. There’s a particular influence from being in New York recently, and a surprising amount of corduroy.
I’ve also included bespoke/MTM commissions, as I mentioned we would do going forward. Let me know if you want more or less of that. Those pieces will always be covered when they’re ready, but sometimes it can be late in the season by then, and too late for anyone to draw inspiration from them.
August Special ‘Voyager’ boots
£493
I first saw these boots in London back in the spring, when they were still in development. I tried them properly in New York a couple of weeks ago, when I saw Joseph from August Special in New York. They have now been refined into a very good, very comfortable chukka boot.
August Special’s biggest point of difference is comfort – slightly more anatomical last, mouldable uppers and internal padding. If you like the style of something of theirs, the rest (including quality and value) is a given. Not everything is for me, but I’m sorely tempted by these Voyager boots, which are slightly smarter than other things in the line. Also the Rambler hiking boots, which just went live yesterday.
Colbo x Sperry ‘Captains’ shoe
£267
Colbo is one of our favourite shops in New York. It does what any good multibrand store does – have a distinct personality and view on the world, such that you’re always interested in what they’ve decided to sell, whether it’s a new brand, a small vintage selection, or (most tellingly) the things they’ve bought from a brand you’ve also seen elsewhere.
Quite a few of the pieces aren’t my style personally, but I tried these Sperry collaboration shoes and they’re the first in this style of shoe I’ve ever been tempted by. Compared to something like the Paraboot ‘Michael’ they’re much subtler, with a less pronounced seam and lower profile. They’re also very comfortable – in a pliable, waxed Horween leather. They also did a boat shoe earlier in the year which is currently sold out.
Museum Garments ‘Sailor sweater’
€267
Museum Garments is a young French brand that was started in 2022, and does a good job at melding traditional menswear pieces with slightly modern cuts – at solid quality and good value for that quality. Which I guess, actually, is the perfect PS combination.
It was started by the French online shop Suuupply, and is sold by them, one or two other places in Europe, and Colbo in the US. This sweater is the nicest example I’ve seen of the high-necked maritime style, and the fit and quality and great. You have to like the high neck folded down as well, I find, but the brand also does some more everyday pieces.
Campbell’s of Beauly lambswool blanket
£135
The blankets at Campbell’s are what you expect – traditional, British-made, solid quality rather than the most luxurious in the world, and great value. But what I’d say sets the Campbell’s ones apart is the taste level. A lot of traditional shops like this in Scotland (and I’ve been to a fair few) have dozens of checked blankets, but rarely in appealing colours. They’ll be too bright, clashing, or just the standard Royal Stewart and Black Watch tartans.
At Campbell’s, I’d gladly take home the Strathglass (pictured), Kiltarlity, Strathcarron or Inchmore variations. And even the Stewart is a much more interesting variation, the colours softened and browned.
£130
My old woven-leather belt is probably the last one I have that isn’t one-inch wide, and I do much prefer that look. So I plan to replace it with one of these from Natalino – a decision solidified when I saw a reader wearing one into the London pop-up recently. How these things age makes such a difference.
It’s made in a nice, slightly waxy leather and is pleasingly different from those with thinner leather strips. Last time I was in the shop they had sold out of my size (90cm) but apparently more are coming next month.
Coherence ‘Jackson’ cord jacket
€850
I ordered one of these from Coherence when I saw them at Pitti back in January, and received it last month. It’s expensive, but I think the best of any luxury-type chore jacket I’ve tried. The Japanese corduroy is softer than you might expect – certainly compared to the Drake’s one I also have – but that goes with the more elevated colour and details.
Fortunately, Clutch have also decided to stock it this winter, so it’s available more broadly in the UK. They also have it in black, and matching trousers in both – though again like the Drake’s Games blazers, I don’t think I’d wear the two together. They’re in the Clutch store now, and will apparently be online from this weekend. Beige in Paris also have the black version.
$178
Rather like chinos, cord trousers for casual wear aren’t always the best bought from classic menswear brands. They can be a little fine, a little shiny. Western or workwear brands often offer something different – coarser cottons with various washes, and construction details that make them more casual too.
These from Buck Mason are a good example. A great off-white colour that’s almost beige, they’re also a very wearable colour. Not everything from Buck is a quality we’d recommend alongside other things on PS, but the trousers and chinos are consistently good. This ‘full saddle’ stye has been refined recently and is now a great straight-but-not-wide cut.
The Anthology ‘caviar’ cord suit
£3200
Hmm, something of a cord theme developing here. I can honestly say I didn’t realise that until I started making the list. Anyway, I said on our last seasonal list that I would start including bespoke commissions in these pieces, and when The Anthology are here next I’m going to be fitting a bespoke version of this – a double-breasted suit in their particular shade of brown cord.
I wear my other brown cord, from Ciardi, a lot, particular for travel where it can be broken up into three different options. But if anything I might prefer this quality and shade from Buzz and the team. Let’s see. Other tailoring commissions include my MTM from Assisi (a glen plaid DB suit) which should arrive soon, and the Russell check that Tranquil House are making me to try and improve on Kim’s first effort.
Rubato waxed-cotton fireman’s jacket
£1500
I’ve seen this new outerwear piece from Rubato, which is due to be released in the next week. It’s the same design as their previous fireman’s jacket, but now in an interesting waxed cotton – it has a light wax and a slightly rubberised texture which is nice. The inside has also been improved, with a half lining which makes it easier to get on and off, and more internal pockets.
The colour is a deep navy (no pictures available yet other than from the above) that verges on black, although that will fade a little over time like other waxed cottons. The clips have also been improved. Overall it’s a really interesting and tasteful, hip-length waterproof piece.
