This year, Rolex presents a bold new expression of one of its most enduring icons with the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 in yellow gold, distinguished by a vivid red ombré dial. Regarded by the brand as the archetype of the classic wristwatch, the Datejust has long been defined by its classic aesthetics and reliable performance. When it made its debut in 1945, it was the world’s first self-winding, waterproof chronometer wristwatch to feature a date display at 3 o’clock – a revolutionary innovation that combined all of Rolex’s key technical breakthroughs of the time and laid the foundation for the modern wristwatch.
The Art of Balance
The most captivating moments in nature often unfold in transition – dawn breaking across the horizon, the shift from summer to autumn, or the precise instant when daylight gives way to night. With the new Datejust 31, Rolex poetically distils this ephemeral quality into a wristwatch that captures the poetry of change. Its dial flaunts an intense red ombré gradient, applied for the first time to the Datejust, injecting a bold new aesthetic for a timepiece historically associated with understated elegance.
The dial presents a nuanced transition from a vibrant, fiery red at its centre to a deep black outer edge. This chiaroscuro effect, where light and dark coalesce, is further intensified by 10 diamond hour markers and a diamond-set bezel that collectively amplify the visual drama. The overall composition is one of striking depth, balance, and aesthetic harmony, made possible by Rolex’s sophisticated manufacturing techniques.
This sophisticated gradient effect is achieved using Rolex’s proprietary Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) process, a technique reintroduced to the brand’s catalogue in 2019 for select Day-Date models. This new red ombré dial, enhanced with a glossy sunray finish, not only highlights the concentric colour transition but also captures and refracts light in layers, adding a dynamic quality to the watch’s visual presentation.
Datejust 31 marks the first time that this concentric gradient execution has appeared in a red hue – an expansion that reflects Rolex’s nuanced approach to colour and material innovation. Finished with a glossy sunray treatment, the dial captures ambient light in layers, enhancing the radial gradient and the sparkle of the applied gemstones.
Meanwhile, functional clarity remains paramount. The Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock magnifies the date display beneath a sapphire crystal that is both scratch-resistant and treated with a dual-layer anti-reflective coating. Despite the ornate elements, legibility remains uncompromised – a hallmark of Rolex design philosophy.
Engineering Prowess
The timepiece is encased in a 31mm Oyster case, made from a solid block of 18k yellow gold. Measuring 10.6mm in thickness, the case balances elegance with durability, delivering wrist presence and ergonomic comfort. Incorporating a double waterproofness system, the Rolex Twinlock winding crown works in conjunction with the finely fluted, screw-down caseback to ensure water resistance up to 100 metres. Accentuating the dramatic dial is the bezel, which dazzles with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing a total of about 1.02 carats.
Powering this model is the calibre 2236, a self-winding mechanical movement developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex. Introduced in 2014 and implemented in the Datejust 31 line since 2018, the movement represents Rolex’s highest calibre of engineering in this size category. Its technical highlights include a Syloxi hairspring in silicon, with a patented geometry that offers exceptional resistance to temperature variation and positional deviation.
Complementing this is a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel, which enhances stability in the presence of magnetic fields. The oscillator beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and is regulated via a balance wheel with variable inertia, adjusted through gold Microstella nuts. A traversing balance bridge improves shock resistance and structural stability, and is aided further by Rolex’s proprietary Paraflex shock absorbers. The movement is powered via a bidirectional Perpetual rotor and delivers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.
As with all Rolex timepieces, the Datejust 31 not only meets but exceeds the requirements of the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), and each finished watch undergoes Rolex’s in-house Superlative Chronometer certification. Redefined in 2015, this rigorous protocol assesses the precision, waterproofness, power reserve, and automatic winding efficiency to ensure that every unit meets or exceeds expectations in real-world conditions. Rolex allows only −2/+2 seconds of daily deviation, a standard significantly more stringent than COSC’s baseline. The green seal and five-year international guarantee are Rolex’s stamp of assurance on this rigorous quality control.
Hallmark of Prestige
The precious metal execution on the Datejust 31 is further distinguished by its President bracelet, a signature element initially created for the Day-Date in 1956 and reserved exclusively for Rolex’s most prestigious references. Here, the three-piece link bracelet features polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges, creating a subtle play of textures that complements the watch’s overall visual complexity.
Beyond its appearance, the President bracelet incorporates Rolex’s patented ceramic inserts within the links, an ingenious feature that enhances comfort on the wrist and long-term durability. The bracelet is secured by a concealed folding Crownclasp, which maintains its seamless visual flow while ensuring a secure closure.
Discipline in Design
The watch retains Rolex’s key functions: centre hour, minute, and seconds hands; an instantaneous date with rapid setting; and stop-seconds mechanism for precise time setting. These features are designed not only for practicality, but to underscore the brand’s enduring philosophy of creating watches that are as dependable in performance as they are refined in appearance.
The Rolex Datejust 31 is the ultimate study in restrained expression. It balances decorative artistry with mechanical precision, offering a dial that draws the eye and a movement that satisfies the most rigorous expectations of performance. By embracing chiaroscuro in its dial design, Rolex reveals a new facet of the Datejust’s personality, one that is more expressive yet no less timeless. In doing so, the brand reinforces its mastery of balance between heritage and progress, light and shadow, as well as elegance and utility.
This story was first seen in WOW #78 Vision 2025 Issue
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